Olivia learnt to create jewels when she moved to Istanbul. She evokes her skills, her difficulties and the discovery of manufacturing methods in Turkey.
Where do you work?
I create wax models at home, in a small workshop and then, I take it to Istanbul Grand Bazaar where pieces in bronze and moulds are produced.
For example, 10 pieces in bronze of each model are produced by craftsmen at the Grand Bazaar and I polish it on site. I add gemstones and necklaces at home.
How did you learn jewelry?
Two years ago, after various travels to Istanbul, I moved here and I met a chaman at the Grand Bazaar, in a very small and smoky workshop and he taught me everything in turkish! It was a big challenge because I was not talking turkish yet. It was hard but rewarding. He gave me some wax, told me to create a bird, I did it and we started the next lesson.
It is an ancient method inspired by Byzantine and Roman cultures that very few people use because it is a long process. I have learned to create my jewels with this method, it is quite crazy because I have never had real jewelry classes. In Istanbul, that’s the way you learn things. Every place I go to produce my pieces are small workshops lost in the middle of nowhere, nothing is indicated, you just know it thanks to persons you already know.
What is your creation process?
I grew up in a family of artists. My father and my brother are musicians and my mother is an artist. It is a kind of family affair! I know how to draw what I want to represent but I am better when I directly create shapes with my hands. I have an idea and I create my piece with wax. I sometimes draw pieces but, generally, I picture it and create it with wax. You can do many things with this material but you need to be patient because it is sometimes too hot, too cold, it breaks, etc. It is both frustrating and fascinating!
Where do you find your inspiration?
Many things in my daily life inspire me because Istanbul is a very rich city. Ancient shapes, historic figures of powerful women, etc. I recently discovered a syrian woman who fought against the Roman Empire. She was wearing beautiful jewels. That is the kind of woman we want to become. To me, these women were stronger than what we say today.
Do you have a favorite tool?
Yes, it is a kind of knife I use to model wax. Otherwise I use heat and my fingers to create my pieces. This knife saves my life!
Where do you buy your material?
I buy my wax in Istanbul, I create my models at home, I go to the Grand Bazaar, I give my models to craftsmen who produce the jewels in gold, bronze or silver. They directly buy raw materials because they are used to do it. After the manufacturing, the different jewels appear on a kind of Christmas tree. It is attached, they need to cut and polish it on big machines because it is difficult to polish it by hand with this process. Then, I find gemstones in Turkey or I import it from India, Iran (turquoise) or Afghanistan (lapis lazuli).
To read the next part : Cleopatra’s Bling – 3/3 More details about Olivia
Photos : © Cleopatra’s Bling. Photographs provided by Olivia Cummings and published with her approval.
